Michael Turner's business suits his clients. He visits them at home or work to determine their wardrobe needs and measure them for the custom-tailored suits he designs for each individual.
But, explains the proprietor of Uncommon Thread, "I'm not into selling one suit to a guy. I'm looking to build up a long-term client base. That means developing a relationship and having a client for life."
The opportunity to check a customer's closet and see past purchases is a good place to start, adds Mr. Turner. He was in retail for 22 years, the last three as manager of the Harry Rosen men's wear store in the Rideau Centre, before opening his custom operation in November 2005. Looking at a client's existing wardrobe gives him the opportunity to note the customer's preferences and examine stresses on the fabrics.
"From here I can give some solid action plans on assembling a wardrobe," he says. "There are certain basics such as having a formula based on colours so that you take the guesswork out of the process, for instance."
Most important of all, he emphasizes, is ensuring a perfect fit. "Never compromise on fit. It says everything about individual style and attention to detail. A well-tailored suit will also wear far better and longer than one of equal quality fabric that is ill-fitting."
To ensure that perfect fit, he takes an average of 35 measurements. "If you go to a men's shop, they'll do 10 measurements," he points out. "A really good men's shop might do 15. I do 30 to 35 so that I can make a pattern for each individual. I don't design my suits based on trends. I design according to the person."
He also takes digital photographs to pair with the list of measurements he gives to his tailor.
"When the body moves, the suit moves. With digital shots and a fitting with the pieces basted together, you can get a better idea of how the fabric reacts."
Having all the measurement details, combined with at least one major fitting session while the suit is being put together, is the key to creating a bespoke—one-of-a-kind—made-to-measure suit, Saville Row style, emphasizes Mr. Turner.
He contrasts Uncommon Thread's style of tailoring with what he refers to as "custom stock suits." This brand of made-to-measure, sold in a number of men's stores, "is manipulating existing patterns slightly for individuals" rather than tailoring for the individual from the beginning.
The other essential component in delivering a perfectly styled and fitted garment is having the right tailor to cut and sew Uncommon Thread's suits. This was critical, says Mr. Turner. "It took me three months to find a tailor who cuts a bespoke suit."
A suit of this quality – the starting price is around $1,200 – styled for a specific individual, "is truly one of the best investments for the wardrobe."
Setting up Uncommon Thread did not require a major capital investment, says Mr. Turner. "I didn't have to get chained down based on an inventory because everything is made for the person."
He estimates his capital expenditure, primarily related to promotional materials and developing a website, at $10,000 "over a period."
"It was more a question of time, loss of salary in leaving a secure, well-paying job and tapping into savings for a while," he says.
He also had to face the challenge of "transferring from the retail environment to the street." But, he has discovered "most people enjoy and respect my service."
Uncommon Thread's services include personal shopping to help male and female clients assemble wardrobes as well as suit design and tailoring for men. He also gives seminars on wardrobe building.
Mr. Turner, who pledges five per cent of net sales to the Ottawa Hospital Foundation, has covered the company's operating expenses since April and now has more than 50 clients on Uncommon Thread's list.
His current emphasis is on personal marketing and networking to familiarize potential clients with Uncommon Thread. Here he has had the support of his wife, Cathy Hupka, "the kind of salesperson that everybody wants to be. She has helped me enormously in getting face time with people."
Next on his list is building the Uncommon Thread website into a more effective selling tool and planning another good fit – the company's first anniversary celebration.
Telephone: 613-863-1055
Email: mike@uncommonthread.ca
Website: www.uncommonthread.ca
By Iris Winston
Special to the Ottawa Business Journal
